Amaryllis Pink White (Hippeastrum reticulatum var. striatifolium) | Hippeastrum striatifolium – striped amaryllis – Bulb

Amaryllis Pink White (Hippeastrum species) are bulbs that are often grown as houseplants. The following information is for the general care of amaryllis, including pink and white varieties.

Amaryllis Pink White Planting

• Choosing a pot: Select a container with drainage holes that is about 1 inch wider than the widest part of the bulb and twice as tall. Amaryllis bulbs prefer to be slightly crowded, or “pot-bound.”
• Selecting a bulb: A healthy bulb should be firm and dry, with no signs of mold, decay, or injury. Larger bulbs tend to produce more flowers.
• Soil: Use a sterile, well-draining potting mix that is high in organic matter, such as peat moss. A mix of two parts loam, one part perlite, and one part compost or rotted manure is a good option.
• How to plant: Fill the pot halfway with soil, place the bulb on top, and add more soil around it. One-third to one-half of the bulb should remain visible above the soil line.

General Care (Pre-Bloom)

• Watering: Water thoroughly after planting until the potting mix is moist, allowing it to drain completely. After that, water only when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. Overwatering can lead to bulb or root rot. Do not let the plant sit in water.
• Light and Temperature: Place the pot in a warm, sunny spot. Ideal temperatures are between 70-80°F. Once the flower buds begin to show color, move the plant to a cooler location (60-65°F) with diffused light to prolong the life of the blossoms.
• Support: As the flower stalk grows, it may become top-heavy. Use a stake or other support to prevent it from leaning or breaking.
• Fertilizer: Fertilizing is not necessary until new growth is visible. Once it appears, you can fertilize with a high-phosphorus houseplant fertilizer at half strength each time you water.

Post-Bloom Care

• Cutting: After the flowers have faded, cut them off to prevent seed formation, which depletes the bulb’s energy. Wait until the flower stalk turns yellow before cutting it off, as a green stalk continues to photosynthesize and store energy in the bulb. Do not remove the leaves.
• Rebuilding energy: After blooming, the bulb is exhausted. Place the plant in the sunniest possible indoor location. Continue to water and fertilize regularly with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer to help the bulb store nutrients for future blooms.
• Moving outdoors: Once all danger of frost has passed, you can acclimate the potted amaryllis to the outdoors. Start by placing it in a shady or indirect light location, then gradually move it to a spot that receives at least six hours of full sun daily.
• Dormancy: In late summer or early fall, bring the plant indoors and place it in a cool, dry, dark location (50-60°F) for 8 to 12 weeks. Stop watering and fertilizing during this period. The leaves will die back, and you can cut off any that have turned brown and dry. After the rest period, you can bring the pot back to a warm, sunny spot and resume watering to encourage new growth and a new bloom.